“Across The Kala Pani
An article I had written in 2013 which lay buried! This may be of use and inttrest to the Indian traveller, once normality returns.
“Across The Kala Pani
Journeys Abroad For The Contemporary Indian
Family “
The Indian traveller
from every possible background has become a well-defined entity on the
firmament of international travel. So much so, that now this demographic is one
that numerous countries work to woo actively to their shores. Whether the specific audience be the Indian
Business group, Indian family, Bollywood Director’s set, or newlyweds to be,
Indians have become a well defined inbound tourism segment for countries
ranging from tiny New Zealand to Australia, Canada, Switzerland and South Africa to name a few.
As is well known,
Indians with their ancient instincts of being merchants and traders have in fact been crossing the Kala Pani or the black waters as the seas surrounding
the Sub Continent was once known, since aeons. It was this trait that close to
a century ago, took Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi’ family to South Africa, the
Sikhs to Vancouver, Port Morseby in Papua New Guinea, and Hong Kong Kong. Even
the indentured labour from Bihar and other parts of the country who ended up
in Trinidad and Tobago, Guyana and Mauritius used this forced travel to advantage, and after a generation, adapted
and donned the cloak of seasoned émigré, and one today who travels back and
forth once again.
The aim of this
writer’s columns will be to offer the well-heeled Indian traveller looking to
experience the great outdoors, in a specific destination abroad as well as some select destinations in the
Indian Sub Continent which would be of interest to Indian audiences. Each of
these destinations are selected on the basis of them possessing a singular
quality, ie primarily an outdoor wilderness destination or travel idea,
occasionally with a cultural dimension to them and offering excellent value for
money.
“Some of the basic skills one
needs in order to experience the great outdoors in the African continent
are fundamentals of how to live and
travel in the bush, and essential cautions and precautions.That the African continent is teeming with a dangerous big game as well as reptiles and insects,
makes this a very important area of travelling and holidaying on “the Dark
Continent” as it was once called.
The word “trek” is an Afrikaans word, which has its origins in the days
that the Dutch Boer pioneers walked across the African jungle contending with
all that it threw before them. Similarly, the word “commando” as in to
mount a commando, relates to the
guerrilla tactic of mounting a raid or ambush, harks back to the same source.
These two words alone, give some sense
of what travelling in Africa entails.
While holiday brochures and catalogues portray an idyllic image of the
wilds of Africa, it should be realised that making your journey facile and
relatively easy, once there, is possible because of a well trained and experienced
host establishment with able guides. To make their task easier, you need to be
alert, sensible and obedient. When everything goes well, one can walk away
thinking, “well that was a cakewalk!” However, one needs to have the utmost
respect for nature as well as one’s guide, and be willing to work
unquestioningly as a team player, especially when travelling with a group.
All this having been said, if one does possess of the right skills and
the attendant qualities mentioned, one can enjoy the wilds of Africa in full
measure. Naturally, the greater the range of skills, the greater the enjoyment!
The aim of this column is to help readers to pursue skills along with
learning about travel opportunities that abound in select wilderness regions.
When one enters a national park or reserve, one usually covers
territory by jeep or occasionally by elephant though our Indian readers will
know, that this is becoming rarer by the day. In India, one is not allowed to
walk in a national park or reserve.
One of the striking aspects of travelling in Africa that the Indian the traveller will notice, is the very little governance visible, unlike the generally
overprotectiveness that is warranted by conditions at home.
The absence of a teeming population allows visitors in African parks, the
opportunity to often also traverse
territory by foot, dugout, elephant and horse, besides jeep, hot air
balloon or plane.
Approaching a herd of big game such as elephant, on foot is has become
something of a trend in Africa. Similarly travelling on horseback affords some
of the most memorable wildlife adventures ever. While it is often said that
wild animals are suspicious of the biped human, it allows a four-footed animal like
the horse to approach it at close quarters. How then do we account for the
“walking safaris” that are now offered in Africa? If one looks at the way these
are conducted, it is by positioning all the visitors in a line across facing
the game. This effectively creates more than just a solo biped. Facing
frontally also enhances the effect perhaps creating a very large creature in
the eyes of the game. Big game which knows little fear, tend to react to
something large than themselves by “ casting a beady eye” but hardly panicking.
Both in the case of walking safaris, as well as for horseback safaris
in Africa, one is able to get “up close and personal” with game. The adrenalin
rush is of a very high order as one is on a one on one with the animals and
knowing that there is no artificial means to come to one’s rescue in the event
of anything going awry, heightens awareness and being one with the elements.
For this first column, we feature Ant’s Nest and Ant’s Hill in South
Africa
Ant’s Nest and Ant’s Hill are both very
private bush homes set on a 5000 hectares (50,000 acres) game conservancy in
the magnificent, malaria-free Waterberg region of the Limpopo province in South
Africa. The Reserve t boasts
with over 40 species of game including the rare sable antelope, Livingstone
eland, Nyala, Oryx, Giraffe, Buffalo, White Rhino and well over 300 species of
resident and migrant birds. A detailed game list is available.
Ants’ offers a unique safari experience,
offering a wide range of activities to keep everyone entertained, from the
youngest to the oldest, the fittest to those most in need of a rest.
In addition to game
drives, the reserve offers a safe and secluded environment to allow guests of all
ages to enjoy guided bush walks, horse rides and cycling.
The Bush Homes:Ant’s Nest
Ant’s
Nest is where it all began. Lying in a natural amphitheatre the original
homestead, with its wide verandahs, has a classic, relaxed, African atmosphere.
A wide variety of game frequents the waterhole in front of the bush home where
horses and dogs abound. The six luxurious en-suite bedrooms accommodate a
maximum of twelve guests. There is a 15 metre swimming pool in the garden,
ideal for those needing some exercise or for purely cooling off after an active
day. This is great for kids as it’s
heated all year. Extensive lawns with indigenous plants surround the pool and
there is a wonderful thatched chill-out spot with vast sofa beds where you can
relax during the heat of the day.
Ant’s Hill
Ant’s
Hill is hosted by a wonderful team who create an open and friendly atmosphere.
Built on the edge of a cliff, this bush home offers breathtaking views across
the Waterberg. With spacious rooms and vast folding doors, the thatched lodge
blends into the bush, while exotic furniture and brightly coloured African
fabrics make it both sophisticated and comfortable. The draped four-poster beds
are seven foot wide and each bathroom is spectacular, offering guests sunken
baths and waterfall showers. Set in boulders on the edge of the cliff, the
heated swimming pool cascades over the lip of the gorge, inducing you to relax
there for hours. Ant’s Hill caters for a maximum of 16 guests and can be booked
non-exclusively or exclusively to one party.
Wining and dining
Ants’ staff take great pride in our sumptuous home
cooking, dining in a variety of places and outside whenever possible. We often
end morning game activities with a bush lunch, whilst at night we sit around
open fires under the stars. The chefs can cater for all dietary requirements
and we serve excellent South African estate wines.
Guided walks
For those who prefer walking, our guides will lead
you through the bushveld on foot. These walks are informative and interactive,
enabling you to gain knowledge of African flora and fauna. One can often miss
the smaller details of our beautiful environment when on a vehicle or
horseback, so guided walks are highly recommended. Whilst these can be in the
form of a gentle stroll, the more energetic can hike over the plains and up
impressive gorges. Whilst identifying insects and birds and learning about the
medicinal uses of various plants you can also learn how to track game.
Specialised bug hunts are available for children at both bush homes.
Game drives
Our guides will be available to take you out in an
open 4x4 Land Cruiser either for morning or afternoon game drives or using a
spotlight at night to find elusive nocturnal animals, such as the rare brown
hyena, aardvark bushbaby and porcupine. The advantage of a game drive is that
you are able to cover more ground across the reserve. Game drives and walks can
often be combined to make game viewing and photography more exciting.
Family safaris
Ant’s Nest and Ant’s Hill will give your children
a life-changing experience. Our unique policy is to allow children of all ages
to join their parents on all game viewing activities, so you can witness their
first encounters with wildlife. We have
a selection of wonderful ponies catering to both the novice and experienced
child rider. Children of four years and
under can be taken on a pony ride around the lodge, led on foot. Children of five years and over can be led on
foot or from horseback, if necessary, depending on their riding
experience. Lessons are also available
We have created specialised kids “bug” and “spoor”
walks, although driving in an open 4 X 4 on game drives is always popular.
Both lodges have various facilities ideal for
kids, such as the heated swimming pools, trampolines, sandpits, a badminton
& volleyball net with a selection of toys and books. Children are welcome
to join their parents for dinner, alternatively, special mealtimes can be
arranged.
Due to our relaxed and informal atmosphere, Ant’s
Nest and Ant’s Hill are ideal for families with kids of all ages. While the
activities keep all well entertained you will learn a great deal about
wildlife, gaining inspiration to last a lifetime.
Weddings and honeymoons
The
Waterberg with its spectacular views is the perfect place to escape to
and makes a wonderful honeymoon destination. Romantic private dinners, bush
lunches, sundowners and the opportunity to go out game viewing, without other
guests, make Ant’s lodges quite unique. You can get married on the top of a mountain or
under a shady Acacia tree
Other activities
Horse riding
Both Ant’s Nest and Ant’s Hill offer the
opportunity for some of the greatest game viewing in the African bush – from
horseback. You can canter along open sandy tracks or traverse high ridges with
spectacular vistas. The pace can be as fast or relaxed as the riders would
like. Often we can get so close to the game that the experience remains
unforgettable. One does need to be an accomplished rider.
Mountain biking:
The incredibly diverse terrain offers extreme
technical cycling as well as gentle meanders.
Clay
pigeon shooting:
For those wanting a bit more action you may wish to try out target or clay
pigeon shooting (additional charge applies).
Massages:
These can be either half an hour or hour massages in the privacy of your
own room or next to the pool, wherever you prefer(additional charge applies).
We
are very happy to take you through the Waterberg to see other interesting sites
(for an additional charge), including:
- A local ‘Big Five’ game reserve, so you can try to find the lion
and elephant we would rather not ride or walk with.
- Elephant Safari: you can take the opportunity of interacting with a
number of trained African Elephants, which is the most enjoyable and
educational experience. This is followed by a ride through the bush on
elephant-back with an experienced elephant handler.
Fact file
Location: The reserve is situated on an escarpment looking
out over the Waterberg Plateau in the Limpopo Province, 3 hours north of OR Tambo International Airport (formally
known as Johannesburg International
Airport) We are 3.5 hours east of Madikwe and 5 hours west of the Kruger
National Park.
Getting
here: We can arrange private
road transfers or air charters between destinations but let us know if you
would rather hire your own car
Visa Requirements: Visas vary depending on your nationality, so
please check with the lodge or your travel agent to confirm visa requirements
for your travels.
If entering South Africa,
please note that you will need 6 blank facing pages in your passport and your passport
should be valid for a minimum of 6 months.
Airstrip co-ordinates: Surface =grass, co-ords = S 241208 E 280558,
Elevation = 3780 ft, Length = 1000 m, Direction = 03/21
Recommended stay: 4-7 nights (this could be at one of or a combination
of both lodges.)
What’s included: accommodation on a full board basis, selected soft
drinks, selected spirits and house wines, laundry and all game viewing
activities including riding, walking, game drives and mountain biking.
Not included: massages, clay pigeon and target shooting, additional activities
off the property, curio shop purchases and gratuities as well as premium
spirits, cellar wines, cocktails and liquors
Meals: We are able to cater for all dietary requirements, but would require
you to advise us in advance if you have allergies or special needs. We are
happy to prepare special children’s’ meals.
Facilities: Ant’s Nest consists of the main house, which has two double
rooms downstairs and two double rooms upstairs, all with private lounge areas.
There are also two double suites, with private bathrooms and verandahs across
the lawns.
Ant’s Hill consists of two privately situated
honeymoon suites away from the main lodge with stunning views, a family cottage
that has two main bedrooms with en-suite bathrooms and an extra loft room, perfect
for kids, as well as a private sitting room and veranda. Another family cottage
with two bedrooms as well as upstairs and downstairs living areas and private
plunge pool. A standard double/twin room
with a private verandah is located above the main lodge.
Planning your visit ,climate and weather:
Ant’s Nest and Ant’s Hill are located in the
Waterberg region of the Limpopo province in the northern part of South Africa.
This beautiful area is malaria-free and at an altitude of 4,500 feet above sea
level offers a wonderful temperate climate and can be visited all year round.
Summer (November to March) – the days can get quite warm (up to 28-32 degrees
on average) but it is a dry heat. We do get summer rainfall, normally in the
form of thunderstorms. These rarely affect activities and are usually in the
evening, however, the African climate is still always unpredictable.
Autumn (April to May) – days can still be warm but the evenings cool
down. Average day time temperature 22-28 degrees. Evenings 10-15 degrees.
Winter (June to August) – days are warm (temperatures in the
mid-twenties) evenings and early mornings very cold with average early morning
temperatures 5-12 degrees. It very rarely rains at this time when the bush is
golden and dry.
Spring (September, October) – days start getting hotter, evenings and
mornings could still be crisp but not as cold. A very slim chance of rain. On
occasion, we can get very hot days.
Guests will be required to sign an
indemnity before going out on any of the activities.
SOME KEY DO’s and DON’T’s Column
Remember: your hosts, as well as the wildlife, represent a dramatically
different culture!
Silence, the unstated word, listening more than talking, will normally
bring you greater dividends.
Animals hear at a decibel level many times more than humans do.
Therefore your hosts will be habituated, living in the midst of wildlife, to be
measured in their actions and volubility. Not adhering to this etiquette
indoors and outdoors will not go down well, so a conscious effort needs to be
made in this regard.
Listening to instructions and commands, and also agreeing to move away
from the sighting of a kill if one has come across one, is both prudent as well
as considerate to others as well as to the wildlife.
Read the norms, forms and orientation provided by the establishment in
advance so that you are fully familiar and comply with the local laws.
contact www.tigerpawadventures.com info@tigerpawadventures.com or this author
